Ancient Recipes
Rose Pesto: A Gourmet Symphony Between Italy and Bulgaria
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recipe by
Maurizio Pigliacampi
This recipe is an authentic piece of family history, taken directly from the personal cookbook of my grandmother Silvia, dating back to 1980. It is the Sarsa da Mainae, a traditional condiment of Genoese cuisine. The name, which in the local dialect means “marinara sauce,” immediately evokes the indissoluble bond between the Ligurian land and the sea. It is a preparation that smells of domestic history and ancient wisdom, jealously guarded within the yellowed pages of that book which is, for me, a precious testament to culinary tradition.
The perfect accompaniment: It was born to be paired with stockfish (or salt cod). The savoriness of the anchovy and the fragrance of the garlic create a perfect contrast with the delicate flesh of the fish, especially if the sauce is “thinned” with a little of the cooking water from the fish itself.
For crostini and bruschetta: Spread on slices of toasted rustic bread, it becomes a rustic appetizer of incredible character.
For dressing vegetables: It is excellent for flavoring boiled potatoes, steamed green beans, or boiled zucchini, giving them an unexpected depth of flavor.
Base for pasta: It can be used as a quick base for sautéed pasta, perhaps adding a few toasted pine nuts or a handful of fresh, raw parsley to balance the savoriness.
Adjust the servings: the quantities are updated automatically.
Pound the garlic with a pinch of coarse salt in the mortar until a smooth paste is obtained.
Add the cleaned anchovy fillets and continue to pound. Incorporate the extra virgin olive oil in a thin stream, constantly rotating the pestle to emulsify the sauce until it becomes glossy.
Add the vinegar and a grind of fresh pepper.
To dress the stockfish, loosen the cream obtained with the stockfish cooking water (which acts as a binder) or with tomato purée, according to preference.
Cool the blender jar and blades in the freezer for 20 minutes. Use anchovies straight from the refrigerator.
Finely chop the garlic and anchovies with a knife before putting them in the blender.
perate the blender only in very short pulses (1-2 seconds), pausing for 3 seconds between each. This prevents the blades from generating friction heat.
Add the oil in a thin stream during the pulses. If necessary, stabilize the sauce with a teaspoon of cold cooking water or vinegar.
Do not work the mixture for too long; stop as soon as the consistency is velvety.
If the anchovies are too salty, soak them in water and milk for 10 minutes before using them.
Heat is the number one enemy of this sauce. The mortar and pestle method remains unsurpassed because it respects the molecular structure of the ingredients without altering their essential oils.
In addition to being the ideal complement for stockfish, this sauce is perfect on hot toasted bread for an appetizer that plays on contrasting textures.